1. What's my Ventura worth?
Always a tough question, but here are some
pointers and general guidelines I can offer from having observed the market over
the past few years. These tips apply to stock or slightly-modified cars;
custom street machines and race cars will have to be judged on the value of
their performance parts and workmanship. You can also get some ideas from
sites such as www.vmrintl.com
1971-1972
Advantages: These model years tend to be most desirable, possibly because the C
pillar is a bit sleeker, interior panels are not too cheap-looking, and they are
marginally lighter because they don't have the massive bumpers of later years.
They also have the best level of aftermarket support due to the popularity of
the early Nova equivalent model years. A Pontiac 350 V8 (introduced in
1972) would be a best-case situation.
Disadvantages: The '71 was available with an optional 307 Chevy V8 that is known for ruining its plastic cam gear, so this will count against it. 4 door versions have very limited appeal and you'd be very lucky to break over $1000; most buyers will be looking at these as cheap parts cars. Sorry.
well-maintained original to near-immaculate restoration: $2500-$4500
unmolested solid grandma car sitting for years, some blemishes $1500-$2500
typical $1000-$1200
1973-1974
Advantages: A higher percentage of these came with Pontiac 350 V8s,
meaning less engine and front end work if you've been planning on V8 power.
New rear bumpers on the '73 and shock-mounted front and rears on the '74 means
they can take (and dish out) a lot more punishment than the earlier versions.
Availability of new hatchback style is a flexibility/convenience plus for some
buyers. "Sprint" versions (primarily an appearance package) have increased
in popularity and may boost the price a bit. The GTO option on the 1974
Ventura tops the price scale but can vary wildly.
Disadvantages: Advent of the heavier bumpers and el-cheapo interior panels. Less aftermarket support and slightly less market interest than the 71-72 body style. Smog-era motors top out at 150 hp, 200 hp in a GTO. Hatchbacks are prone to water leaks, hatch lid rust out, squeeks, and rattles. With extra folding seat mechanisms and indestructible spare tire compartment trap door, my suspicion is that the hatchback is heavier than the coupe. Lots of GTO clones, so know how to spot the real deal if it's important to you. Same story as the '71-'72 when it comes to 4 doors.
well-maintained original to near-immaculate restoration: $2200-$4000
unmolested solid grandma car sitting for years, some blemishes $1200-$2200
typical $700-$1200
1975-1977 (includes Phoenix 77-79)
Advantages: Interiors are prettied up (provided the original buyer had good
taste in seat coverings), with nicer door panels and redesigned receding dash
pad for roomier feel. More glass for better rear visibility. Some comfort
features such as power windows are introduced, especially on the Phoenix.
New front subframe/ steering/ suspension geometry provides much better handling.
Same hatchback benefits as on '73-'74. "Sprint" appearance package (1975)
may provide a small boost in value. Rock-bottom price for what can be a
very sharp-looking, great-handling vehicle makes them a screaming deal.
Lots of L6 and V6 versions were built and are worth a second look from a fuel
economy standpoint. Shock-mounted bumpers on all years.
Disadvantages: Almost total indifference by the market, still almost zero collectibility, poorest resale. Limited aftermarket support, but not too different from '73-'74 situation, almost no parts commonality with earlier years. Production shortcuts give the impression of a weaker, cheaper car. Mid- to late-70s V8 offerings (Buick 350, Chevy 305, Olds 260 and Pontiac 301) are compromises that have virtually no performance parts available. Same drawbacks for hatchback versions and 4 doors. Poor power-to-weight as expected. Styling not a hit with many of the X-body crowd.
well-maintained original to near-immaculate restoration: $1000-$3000
unmolested solid grandma car sitting for years, some blemishes $800-$1000
typical $500-$1200
2. How can I tell a real '74
GTO from a clone?
The only sure-fire way to tell is to get the VIN
of the car and pay about $30 to Pontiac Historic Services (